11th Century Castle Tabiano - great place to stay near Parma

Football with a bit of biff

CALCIO STORICO: Firenze, Feast of San Giovanni Battista

Every year the Santa Croce Piazza is filled with sand and surrounded by temporary stands as it hosts three traditional soccer games, two qualifying semi finals, followed by a final between the two victorious teams. This grand final is held on 24 June to celebrate the Feast of San Giovanni, with four squads of twenty seven men, each wearing medieval clothing, going into battle like warriors of old. The four squads are formed from the four historic quarters of Firenze: Santo Spirito (whites), Santa Croce (blues), Santa Maria Nouvella (reds) and San Giovanni (greens). The finalists in 2011 were Santo Spirito and Santa Croce, with the blues gaining a thrilling victory by the narrowest of margins.

Calcio Storico is a wonderfully weird combination of wrestling and football, using a soccer ball which is thrown rather than kicked and run towards goal by the sprinters in the team, while the big men wrestle each other on the ground. All 27 men from both teams are on the field at the one time for 50 minutes without a break, and they use fair means and foul to score, giving supporters an amazing spectacle, although there is so much going on at any one time on the 40 x 20 metre field that it’s difficult to know where to look, especially as the ball is not always clearly visible! It is not uncommon for several players to be stretchered off the field during the game, as this is a very serious battle on the feast of the city’s patron saint and locals are of course very passionate about their teams.

This post is written by Krista Bell.

Football with a bit of biff

Traveller’s cheques were the way to go in the past, but waiting in line at the bank is not fun at home and definitely not fun in a foreign country.  There are much better ways.

I really dislike paying exorbitant fees to banks for the privilege of using my own money overseas, and that is why I think I might have come up with a couple of options that could cut down these charges, but first:

The Starting Point -  Dreaded Foreign Exchange Rate
The first thing you need to know is that the bank or organisation you decide to deal with to exchange your money for foreign currency will build a margin into the exchange rate they offer you relative to the official exchange rate.

The official exchange rate: As of today, using the official exchange rate, you will receive is 0 .72 euro cents for every $1.00. But the organisation you deal with will definitely not give you the official exchange rate. For example the ANZ will give you .69 euro cents for $1.00 and other banks will vary around this figure – the bank then keeps the 3 cent margin.  This is an unavoidable cost for all foreign exchange transactions but we are mentioning it here so that you are aware.  The real point of difference between the banks are the other charges in addition to the currency conversion.

ATM Cards
In most countries the most convenient way to fill your pocket with cash is with a visit to the ATM cash machine, and in Italy it is no different.  The great thing is that in most cases your ATM card from home will also work in Italy – marvellous!

Before you are ready to do this though you should contact your bank to ensure that your card will be compatible with the overseas machines. Italian ATM machines are called ‘Bancomats’. Generally, if your card has a Maestro, Cirrus or a Plus sign on the reverse of the card, you are ready to go.

Visa/Debit cards
Just like at home, you can use money in an account to pay with a card in a shop, like you would any credit card (but the money you will be using is yours and is sitting in your account). Great news if you spot that beautiful Italian bag you really must have. This same card can also be used to withdraw money from the ATM machine. Along with the Plus sign etc on the back of the card you will also have ‘Visa’.

What will you pay for the convenience of these cards?:  Fees for these services are varied but they all follow a similar pattern.  For instance, the NAB charges $4.00 for every withdrawal and then 2% on the Australian dollar amount you are withdrawing (this fee can vary between banks and can be as high as 3%).

So if I withdrew the euro equivalent of $100, I would be charged $4.00 withdrawal fee, a 2% fee ($2.00) and also as the bank’s foreign exchange rate is .69, roughly another 3% ($3.00).  So in effect I am nearly paying 9% (or $9) to have the privilege of changing my dollars into euros and spending them in Italy.  That is high!

Other options:

Travel Money Card
Today it is possible to walk into any bank or some travel agents and buy a money card.  This card can be loaded with Australian dollars which is converted into the currency of your choice ie, euro or American dollars etc,.  You will be given cards, usually on the spot, which you will be able to use in shops (as a credit card) and also to take money from ATM machines.  The day you buy the card, you are given the exchange rate of that day so the card will have euros already loaded onto it.

You will be charged a fee for each withdrawal at an ATM machine, usually around $4.00 per transaction. Some banks don’t charge for the first lot of money you put on this card, but others charge 1.1%.  This card has advantages but also disadvantages.  It is possible to reload this card when you are overseas by using Bpay online at a cost of around 1.1% – big advantage.  Big disadvantage, if you come home with money still on the card, you guessed it, there will be fees to convert your euros back to dollars.   The initial cost for these cards also varies. All major banks offer some type of travel money card.

Travelex
Travelex Cash Passport cards are similar to the above, and some banks including NAB use Travelex.  But be very wary, as I was caught out with this one.  Travelex in very fine print in the Product Disclosure state:

5.4    When a Card (or Additional Card) is used at bars or restaurants an additional percentage (usually, but not necessarily, 20%) may be automatically added as an anticipated service charge or tip and debited to the Cash Passport Fund. If your actual service charge or tip is less, it may take up to 7 days from the date of the transaction before the difference is available.

What? I was amazed when I realised that this was happening when checking my statements.  Whether I tip, or not, is not the business of Travelex!  It takes days for this amount, your money, to be reimbursed to your account.

If you pay for your restaurant bill on your last day of your trip and have budgeted so that you have just the amount of money left to cover the cost of dinner, your card may be rejected for insufficient funds, even though you have the correct amount left on the card.  So beware. This is one of the reasons I do not use Travelex.

Credit Cards
These charges also vary markedly but usually around 2.5 – 3%.The good thing about using a credit card is that if for some reason your card is stolen, you are fully covered for any losses.

As all countries are becoming more security conscious, you will be asked for a 4 digit pin, which you really must have.  In Italy it is also not uncommon to be asked for your passport to confirm your identity when using your credit card. If you don’t want to carry your passport with you, just cover the photo page which should suffice.

My Current Choice
Some banks also offer ‘Gold’ Debit/Visa cards.  These cards do not charge for the transaction or the currency conversion which is fantastic (so in effect, a saving of $6 on my withdrawal of $100) but of course there is a catch….there is a monthly charge to this card, around $10 a month, but it is possible to register for the card before you travel and cancel the card when returning home.  This really might be worth considering for the convenience and also really cuts down on the fees every time you go to the overseas bank. Nab offers the above, although other banks might have similar products.

The other great benefit of some Gold cards is that they can include travel insurance, which is another wonderful saving.  Make sure you check all of the requirements for the insurance though before you travel.

Dynamic Currency Conversion
Not long ago when buying something with my credit card in Italy, I was asked if I would like to be charged in dollars, not euros.  Well of course, I agreed and thought what a good idea….little did I know that this is another way  the merchant is able to gouge even more profit out of my sale by attaching its own currency conversion, usually always outrageous to the transaction.  The amazing thing is that your bank will most probably still charge you the currency conversion price as well.  If you are ever asked is you would like to do this…just say NO, politely and walk away!

These are things you should do to access your money safely and less expensively when overseas:

1. Talk to your bank and then compare the services and fees with other banks. You don’t necessarily need to use your usual bank as it might not offer the best deal.
2. Check out the Gold Visa/Debit card.
3. Whatever, you do – don’t get foreign cash at the airport – the foreign exchange rates can be crazy and you will really be paying for the convenience- sometimes, unbelievably up to 20%! You can order euros or other currency through your bank.
4. Make sure you take a couple of options with you ie, travel money card with credit card or ATM card.
5. Don’t keep cards together as you could become a victim of theft.  Have a backup. Keep one back at the hotel.
6. Advise your bank you are going overseas and gather all contact numbers in case of emergency.
7. Don’t take traveller’s cheques.  This is outdated and wastes time waiting in banks to exchange them for cash.
8. Make sure you know all of your passwords for your accounts and have access to view your accounts online.
9. Know how to top up your travel money card, visa debit card etc., and move money from one account to another online.
10. Don’t ever use DCC – always pay in euros.
11. Always arrive in a country with a small amount of cash, just in case your cards are not working.  Have enough for the first two days at least.
12. Cash in king in Italy don’t assume that you will be able to pay with a card in a restaurant or an entry fee to a museum – this is not always the case even in the big cities. This is a cash society and you will be asked often to pay in cash.  Why: Not only do Italians dislike paying fees to banks, they also don’t like revealing their financial status to the government, or tax man.
13. If an ATM machine doesn’t work with your card, don’t assume that your card isn’t working – try several machines as some ‘bancomats’ don’t take foreign cards.
14. Don’t walk around with wads of cash…take what you need for a couple of days, no more just in case of theft.
15. Take a copy of all your cards, front and back, leave a copy at home and email a copy to your hotmail account just in case of theft.

If you think about fees before your trip away, you won’t be too disappointed when opening  statements on your return.  Unfortunately, though there is no way to escape from them completely.

Our guide Giovanni met us in Bomerano which is a 40 minute drive from our hotel in Positano.  Do you really need a guide for this walk, you might ask?  Well, even though I have done other walks around the coastline, some with and without a guide, I haven’t participated in this particular walk.  Listening to others’ stories of how a short 3-4 hour walk ended up being a 10 hour trek, and also not being familiar with this particular part of the coastline, I felt it was prudent to engage a guide.  Giovanni is a wealth of knowledge of the area and its history and pointed out many fascinating tales of life living on the mountains.  Farmers, shepherds and woodsmen were so isolated many very rarely ventured into the towns which as the crow flies are relatively close. The trek took us past caves and vineyards with sheer drops to the sea below and on this particular day a mist was rolling in which really did give the scene an almost eerie feeling. Falcons were circling above focused on some unfortunate prey in the scrub and you could faintly hear the whoosh of their wings…it really was a magical experience.

Giovanni loves to do this walk starting from Bomerano, not from Positano as the views from this angle are wonderful and I must say walking from Positano up to Nocelle where the track begins is not for everyone, and is very strenuously uphill. The other enticement is that when you reach Nocelle, a very small town serviced by the Positano town bus,  you can decide whether you would like to continue the walk down to Positano, or sit in a great little family restaurant, Santa Croce, and feast on the delights of a home cooked lunch with yet more spectacular views of the coast all washed down with some delightful local vino.  Guess which option I prefer?

Santa Croce restaurant, Nocelle

The paths are relatively well maintained but good walking shoes are essential as are sunscreen, hat and water.  How fit should you be?  Well, I won’t kid you, these walks aren’t a ‘walk in the park’ but if you are relatively fit and have plenty of time to stroll and gaze at magnificent coastlines, you shouldn’t miss this walk.

So to summarise:

• Although this walk is included in our Italian Indulgence Ciao Bella Tour it certainly isn’t a requirement.  If finding the perfect spot for coffee or an aperitivo sitting on the beach in Positano is more to your liking – that’s fine. Or maybe some shopping would do?

• The Walk of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei in Italian) starts in Bomerano and finishes in Positano but you can cut the walk short and stop for lunch in Nocelle and catch the local bus down to Positano (my preferred option).  The whole walk will take you around 4 1/2 hours but if you stop in Nocelle it should take around 3 hours.
• You will need good walking shoes, water, hat and camera, of course.

• Do you need a guide?  Well, we love to have experienced guides who really know their stuff, but if you have a very good map of the area, you might be ok.  I have heard horror stories of those who missed signs  turning a  3 hour walk into a 10 hour nightmare.

Great spot for a photo - Ciao Bella Tour

Giovanni Visetti

Our guide Giovanni Visetti, is an Amalfi Coast guide extraordinaire who is  also a map-maker and author and has been intimately involved in guiding groups around the wonderful trails of Amalfi as well as producing maps for the area.  To say he knows the trails like the back of his hand is an understatement. Giovanni is some serious walker even organising a gruelling walk taking participants 95 miles (150 kms) in  a period of 7 days in the Amalfi and Isle of Capri area in May 2011. Check out his website here it is a wealth of information for the serious walker. www.giovis.com

Nocelle to Positano bus making a 9 point turn

Spectacular cliff faces

The mist rolls in

Note: someone climbed this to leave the sign

We met some of the locals

Always on the look out for some new eating experiences, I flicked through the book and found Da Adolfo, and of course also listened to recommendations from others who had stayed in Positano and visited Da Adolfo more than once (what a great recommendation!). It seems as though Amanda had a bit of a vested interest in recommending this Positano institution – she was married to Sergio the son of the original owner and lived in Positano for 18 years, which explains her intense knowledge of the area – but her recommendation was spot on!

Da Adolfo is in a small cove next to the main beach in Positano. You are met on the wharf  in Positano by Da Adolfo’s boat – what a fantastic way to be ferried to lunch – this really gets you in the mood for what’s in store. This restaurant is quite different in that it is a real beach restaurant and you sit at the table with sand in your toes eating the freshest catch of the day – delicious.  I love the idea that all of the day’s menu is on a blackboard – sometimes with lines crossing off the fish as they were devoured by the hungry mob.

The very friendly waiters explained all of the catch of the day and how it would be cooked – mostly simply grilled – we started with the aromatic version of buffalo mozzarello grilled on lemon leaves – the smell was sensational, and the taste, just perfect. But the restaurant also caters for others who don’t eat fish, and the couple in our party who chose other items on the menu were equally as happy with their choices.

After drinking the very presentable table wine, we decided to indulge in a variety of dolce, thinking that a fish restaurant probably wouldn’t do such a great job – but we were very pleasantly surprised.

We had totally indulged, it was warm, the sun was shining and life was good. What to do next? Well, the other great drawcard of this restaurant is that you can take up one of the lounge chairs in the front of the restaurant and either sleep off lunch, or go for a swim – I was in heaven!

Contact us for a great Italian experience click here…

If you have travelled around the mainland of Italy but want to experience something a little different, then you might want to consider a side trip to Sardinia, or Sardegna, the correct Italian name. Ryanair, one of Europe’s budget airlines, flies from Rome Ciampino to Cagliari which is the south of the island and although there are many different ways to discover the island – this is the route we decided to take.

Cagliari – Oristano – Alghero

Cagliari is the capital of Sardinia and has a delightful old town around an old port area. The main attraction of the area is the Castello (castle) neighbourhood which is still partially enclosed by the walls. The place to be seen is the main piazza where the locals gather at night to eat on the street, weather permitting, and catch up on the daily news. There are some wonderful inexpensive restaurants in this area so definitely worth visiting. We did notice on nearly every menu that ’cavallo’ or horse was on offer – so be careful when ordering and take a good phrase book if this is not what you would like to try.
Our base: Sa Domu Cheta – a great small hotel, more of a bed and breakfast really, it consists of two buildings next to each other. Walking distance to the main piazza, comfortable beds, newly renovated, delicious and healthy breakfast, and free internet.
www.sadomucheta.it

Oristano is placed in the centre of Sardinia and besides having a historical town full of interesting architecture and quaint shops, it is very near the area of San Salvatore which was well used in the 60s as the backdrop for many of the spaghetti westerns. In fact, when you visit the small town, with the incredible house facades, it feels as though Clint Eastwood will appear toting his 6 guns at any moment.
The town is fascinating as it is deserted for most of the year but on the first weekend in September it is host to one of the oldest festivals in Sardina. Many families maintain the small houses there so that they have accommodation just for this weekend. The festival involves around a thousand runners, all barefoot young men in whites robes carrying the simulacrum of San Salvatore. Even though the festival only takes place on one weekend a year, and the rest of the time the town is deserted, there is a western bar, of course, which is open most weekends in the summer and a great place for a drink after exploring this fascinating town.
Our base: Eleonora B & B this bed and breakfast is run by a young couple and they are really doing things well. The building is in a quiet piazza, close to the action, the rooms are huge and the beds are very comfy. Breakfast delicious.
www.eleonora-bed-and-breakfast.com

Alghero – was built around a fortified port and has a delightful old town, you will want to stay quite close to the town as there are great restaurants and bars in this area. We visited the daily market for picnic supplies and this was great fun. One activity you shouldn’t miss when in Alghero is the Grotta di Nettuno (Neptune’s Grotto). These marine caves are truly fascinating and are located to the west of the town. If you have a car it is a short drive but then you must trek down around 700 steps! The entrance is around 10 euros but this includes a guided tour. When you finish the tour then you need to trek the 700 steps UP!! Another way to visit the caves is to take a tour from the town, not too expensive, around 30 euro and the boat takes you right to the mouth of the cave.
Another great activity while near Alghero is the Giara de Gesturi
Our base: Hotel San Francesco Set right in the middle of the old town, the location is perfect – but… this hotel is rated as a 3 star (and charges accordingly) which it definitely is not. This is a monastery stay, the church is right next door. The hotel rooms face a cloister and the monks still use the same building. The rooms are very small, the beds extremely uncomfortable and it has a feel of a monastery – and that is fine if it is what you were expecting. I was expecting a 3 star hotel.
www.sanfrancescohotel.com

Poppies, poppies everywhere

These brilliantly coloured scarlet flowers probably originated in Africa or Egypt and could really be classed as a weed – but what a glorious weed it is.  The fields of poppies en masse are synonymous with all things Tuscan but we shouldn’t forget it also spreads over other parts of Europe and is a symbol of remembrance. The Flanders poppy, its other name, covered the battlefields of France during The Great War.

We cherish too, the Poppy red
That grows on fields where valor led,
It seems to signal to the skies
That blood of heroes never dies

Moina Michael (extract)

Not just a pretty face.
The Tuscan poppy has similar attributes to the opium poppy but in a much milder form and can be used to treat some everyday ailments and also used in the making of bread.

The Colorado State University investigating the red poppy noticed that it contained the alkaloid rhoeadine, which can be a mild sedative.  This might also explain why it has been used to treat anxiety and stress and also as a cough suppressant.

It might be regarded as a weed by some,  but when arriving in Italy in May, it seems like a magical scarlet blanket has covered the fields and this contrasts beautifully with the brilliant blue of the sky, which for some strange reason seems to be even more blue in Tuscany.

In addition to this, the iphone (and others) has a ‘fetch data’ function, which is great at home as all of your emails etc., are ‘pushed’ to your phone enabling you to check your mail in the coffee shop. This function overseas is a recipe for disaster – data charges can be huge.   Here are some great tips for avoiding a heart attack when opening your post holiday phone bill……

Do you really need to be available to all and sundry on holidays? If not, maybe you need an Italian sim card (or any other country’s card):

To use an Italian sim card:

1. Make sure your phone is unblocked – before you leave for holidays ask your provider how this can be done, usually over the phone
2. When in Italy buy a sim card at a phone dealer i.e., Wind, Tim – you will need your passport to verify your identity
3. Insert your new sim card
4. Text close friends and family, give them your new Italian number and let them know that they will be charged  international rates if they call
5. You’re set.

If you need to be available on your own number, and want to keep using your phone, but  avoid nasty surprises when you arrive home:

1. Turn off 3G – this function allows your phone to work much faster allowing more data to download
2. Turn off ‘Data Roaming’ – this will stop email etc., being sent to your phone (you can always check this at the hotel or an internet cafe)
3. Use text to communicate with family and friends, this is much cheaper but still around $1.00 a text
4. Use the hotel’s computer if you need to surf the web
5. Of course, if you are in a wifi zone you will still be able to connect with the internet.

The way to turn off ‘Data Roaming” and ’3G’:

• click ‘settings’
• click ‘general’
• click ‘network’
• click ‘Enable 3G’ and ‘Data Roaming’ Put these in the Off position
• You’re set

Happy holidays!